Tom randall is a professional in terms of training. My name is tom randall and im one of the cofounders of lattice training which is a coaching and profiling company in the uk. In this episode of wild country climbing tips tom randall shares his master technique on making tape gloves for basic hand jamming. Tom randall and pete whittaker made it their mission to climb the worlds hardest offwidth cracks. Traditional bolted face climbing means the bolts were placed on lead andor with hand drills. Today we fly a drone into a wall, get a gym tour and film and outrageous psicobloc route. Here, tom randall shares his pointers for how to build and make the most of a crack machine for athome training. Today its toms turn to teach us how to use finger locks and jams for thin. Train for it, and tom randall gives the scoop on his regimen. A friend took me there, because i wanted to overcome my fear of heights, tom tells us. Basics of how to make a crack machine tom randall and pete whittaker the wide boyz tips on building your own offwidth. Tom randall and pete whittaker spent two months in wyoming and utah this fall climbing the united statess hardest offwidthsawkwardly sized, unpopular cracks that are. Please selfisolate and do not climb outside or inside.
In addition hes directorfounder of the climbing station gym. Two brave brits have become the first to complete a tough climb up a 160foot fissure in utahs canyonlands. Wideboy and and lattice training founder tom randall looks at how. Its day two at the boardroom form tom randall and pete whittakers crack school.
Read on to see his unique training contraption and how you can build your own athome crack machine. Great deals on training gear here discover lattice training here. Check in every day for all the latest in sport, trad, ice climbing, bouldering, and mountaineering for amazing gea. A short edit of a crack training circuit from my cellar in sheffield. Get the latest extreme sports videos on the epictv facebook page.
Establishing the worlds hardest offwidth century crack followed, and the name of the wide boyz stuck. About tom randall training for climbing trainingbeta. For randall, climbing is allconsuming, but this hasnt always been the case. Furthermore, cracks are difficult to simulate in climbing gyms, so those who train indoors are limited to face routes when they climb outside. Home gym climbing design, pictures, remodel, decor and ideas page 2. The ascent was shown in the delightfully named sequel, wide boyz 2. Watch the interview as epictv climbing daily ask him some questions he hasnt been asked before. Beta climbing designs, the uk importer for sterling ropes, have arranged for us to interview their team climber tom randall. P in our latest video on the youtube channel, we climb.
Most of the popular rock climbing in california is granite and provides some of the best crack climbing available in the country, says touchstone programs director ryan moon. Hello tom, just a quick note to say thank you for your advice at the crack climbing thing you did down at boulders in cardiff. The british crack climber tom randall in an interview. I think, in terms of crack climbing, then im probably most proud of century crack still, even though it might not be the hardest thing ive done mainly because of the journey and the process that i went through with pete to go from being pretty average about discipline to being quite good. The bolts tend to be much farther apart than sport climbs. Fitness gym design climbing wall 67 ideas for 2019 this site will show you how to build your own climbing peg board from parts found at any lumberhardware store. Tom randall and pete whittaker were on hand to give expert advice as well as a host of pro superstars. Video of tom randall climbing london wall at millstone in gym shoes. Crack climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber follows a crack in the rock and. Traditional or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers place all gear required to protect against falls, and remove it when a pitch is complete. Tom randall on his crack climbing training from the rc uk. Steve bechtel, kris hampton, and tom randall on training.
His fear of heights remained, but he also found his passion. Climbing the worlds hardest offwidth outside online. Ive been looking for something for quite some time that would take my crack climbing on a significant step in terms and strength and power. First climbed back in 1975 by john allen, it has lost none of its charm and bite and.
Posts about crack training written by tomrandallclimbing. On yesterdays show we check out tom randalls legendary training cellar. Establishing the worlds hardest offwidth century crack. Rock climbing has been essentially void of research studies, the lack of commercial gain possible from findings the limiting factor. Apply just enough torque to stick to the edge and no more, and things can be pretty cozy. Even the first 20m were brilliant and this was before you got to the roof. Tom randall from sheffield, uk is one of the most recognised figures in the climbing scene, hes known for his brutal training regimes and offwidth crack climbing. Unless you live near indian creek or yosemite valley, or your local gym has graciously included cracks in its wall plan, specific training for crack climbing can be hard to come by. Tom randall is a modern day institution in the world of british climbing. Since then, they have been on a mission to bring the art and enjoyment of crack climbing into the indoor world of modern climbing gyms.
Tom randall, 32, and pete whittaker, 20, free climbed the century crack by squeezing. There was an interesting blog post on the british crack climbers tom randall and pete whittaker. Tom randall is a professional climber, entrepreneur and one of rock and ices new online contributing writers. This passion was so great that one day he was finally able to earn his living with it.
Tom randall knows this all too well and this footage in his cellar documents the work done prior to freeing century crack along with with pete whittaker. Robbie phillips im no wideboy like pete whittaker or. Austin rock gyms adult performance training program guides you with expert coaching from credentialed, experienced, and educated climbing professionals. Tom randall climbs the insanelooking the kraken v by teambmc. After making the fourth and fifth ascents of the route in trad style, tom randall and pete whittaker resolved to remove the bolts, returning the route to its original condition.
I was finding that being strong enough and fit enough wasnt cutting it. I searched the internet a lot but couldnt find any good. Midtbo has nearly 260,000 youtube subscribers, which is nearly 200,000 more than the company black diamond and over 150,000 more than petzl. Watch tommy caldwell climbing europes hardest offwidth thai boxing e7 6c5. Tom, along with pete whittaker are best known as the wide boyz. The crack system is probably around 2530 degreee overhanging so its pretty sustained and the climbing works with a mixture of finger locks, thin hands and the occasional hand jam.
Alison and myself had a great time and laughed trying to apply it all in pembroke that afternoon and sunday. Tom randall talks about his climbing obsession gripped. About tom randall tom randall is a professional in terms of training. For example, a trad bolted route may have bolts from. It measures finger strength, endurance, movement patterns and much more. This encompasses much of what i built to train on for century crack, but with some variations. Crack fix how to build a home crack training system. Being able to climb in yosemite is one of the main reasons so many california climbers get started crack climbing. The wide boyz back in 2009, tom randall and pete whittaker made it their mission to climb the worlds hardest offwidth cracks. Learn how to crack climb with the wide boyz gripped magazine. T here is no question about itcrack climbs have been sneaking their way into competition climbing. Whether you are a seasoned climber or getting ready for your first crack, protecting your hands dayin and dayout is the difference between a fun climb and a miserable day ending with painful gobies and trashed skin. Climbers complete a standardized test in a specially developed grille in a partner climbing gym in lattice.
After conquering north americas hardest offwidths in their film wide boyz, tom randall and pete whittaker set their sites on the notorious thin line. Magnus midtbo recently had wide boyz tom randall and pete whittaker on his youtube channel to talk about crack climbing. Here, tom randall shows how he trained for the brutal. Track your workouts and analyse your progress with assistance from easytofollow exercise demo videos. Utilizing the available time and energy in the most efficient manner is extremely important for the performance oriented sport climber. With his training concept lattice training he advises and trains customers all over the world. In 2011, tom randall and pete whittaker completed the first free ascent of century. Follow workouts crafted by worldclass climbers and coaches tom randall and ollie torr of lattice training. I had an epiphany on my local gym crack when i realized the goal of foot torque is to smear the side of the crack with your big toe, not jam your foot all the way in solid and stand on it. Well known for his acquired taste for offwidth crack routes, randall consistently sets himself the highest standards and the hardest lines. Pete and i are building crack volumes, which we sell to climbing gyms. This video was filmed before the corona virus situation. Proof that shoes do not matter for anyone climbing at any level, right.
Crack fest brings together crack climbing masterclasses and a competition in one insane day. We have a lot of training in the basement under my house. For anyone who loves or wants to get into crack climbing but doesnt live near any splitters, or wants to become a crack master, heres a quick guide on how to build a home crack system. We work with climbers, mostly online, all over the world from juniors all the way to adults. Tom randalls pinky pullup crack climbing training epictv climbing daily, ep. Crack climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber follows a crack in the rock and uses specialized climbing techniques. Training for cracks the rock climbers training manual. The british crack climber tom randall in an interview lacrux. Tom randall s pinky pullup crack climbing training epictv climbing daily, ep. By the summer and i was getting ready for dry rock and good conditions.
Tom has worked extremely hard over the last two years in a cellar in sheffield honing his crack climbing skills. The kraken, v posted on august 10, 2015 by tomrandallclimbing ever since doing the pura pura, ive been looking out for something thatd take my crack climbing in a slightly new direction. The idea of a wide boyz business grew from the crack climbing courses that tom and pete ran at indoor walls to pass on their crack climbing knowledge. Nov 9, 2012 unless you live near indian creek or yosemite valley, or your local gym has graciously included cracks in its wall plan, specific training for crack climbing can be hard to come by. The inspiration for building this crack machine came after seeing tom randall and pete whittakers crack cellar, which they used to train for century crack a 5. I recently stumbled across a training beta podcast were well known britsh hardman and crack master tom randall and his training business partner and exercise ph. The whole competition scene was set alight last year when we saw adam ondra cruise a crack on the world cup circuit to take the victory ahead of the poor laybacking japanese climbing team. It made a lot more sense being able to apply it as it was explained. His partnership with pete whittaker as one half of the wideboyz has seen him establish and repeat many of the worlds hardest cracks. The sizes of cracks vary from those that are just barely wide enough for the fingers to fit inside, to those that are so wide that the entire body can fit. Crackclimbing experts pete whittaker and tom randall introduce their very own branded climbing volumes. Who can hang in the off width for the longest check out toms cellar here. Im no wideboy like pete whittaker or tom randall, but im occasionally able to flail my way up a splitter finger crack or bridge roof crack.